Montana: U.S. Highway 2

A basic ride, with lots of interesting stuff along the way. That is definitely the way my life is going. It’s perfect!!

Friday, June 7, 2019.  Leaving Glacier National Park, Montana.

I regretfully left beautiful Glacier National Park early in the morning, in a pouring rain.  I was glad my inner self told me to pack up and connect the trailer the night before, so I could pretty much jump in the truck and go in the morning.  Wise person sometimes, that inner self.

The rain was working on the snow remaining on the ground and up on the cliffs.  Waterfalls up the cliffs, and gullies on the ground.  The snow will give way here very soon, and the July tourists will see a different Glacier than I did.  Whatever the season, Glacier is worth the trip to come see.  I will be back.

Moving east on two-lane country U.S. Highway 2 along the northern edge of Montana.  The map says I can stay on that road all the way to Minnesota, which is my next “destination.”   Following the morning sun.  Or rain.

A few hours east of Glacier, I stopped at the Visitor Center in the small town of Shelby, Montana.  Jennifer, the host, gave me some very helpful and interesting historical stories, maps, brochures, and general information about north central Montana, where I was headed.  I asked about places to camp, and she told me that her family liked to go to Beaver Creek Park in Havre, about 60 miles east.  I continue to find first-hand advice is good advice, so off I went.

Friday, June 7 to Monday, June 10, Beaver Creek Park, south of Havre, Montana.            

Beaver Creek Park is the largest county park in the U.S.  I believe about 10,000 acres.  It is about 10 miles south of Havre and runs 17 miles along a flowing creek below some bluffs. It also includes 2 large reservoirs (stocked for fishing).  It is open camping, with fire pits all along the way.  Beautiful.

The first night I set up camp in a grassy area on the marshy edge of one of the reservoirs.  I was delighted to watch two families of Canadian geese, one with 7 young and the other with 9.  When they swam in the water, the larger of the adults would lead, and the rest of the family would fall in behind in some order they seemed to understand.

They came up on land near my trailer a few times, with the young ones (more like teenagers than babies) pecking at the grass and gobbling everything in sight, and the adults standing on guard with necks stretched tall.  A reason for concern would send them off into the reeds and to safety, with Mom urging them on. They moved so fast it was as if they just evaporated.  So fun to watch. 

Another reservoir resident was a large white pelican.  I have seen many gray ones in California waters, but I don’t recall white.  From a distance, I thought he was a swan.  He would stand in shallow water or swim across, occasionally dipping his whole head and neck into the water and coming up with fish in his beak.  Again, interesting to watch.  And ducks flying overhead.  Who needs TV?

Other nights were spent at different areas along the creek, enjoying the variety of the bluffs and the speed of the water.  I didn’t have a Montana license, so didn’t do any fishing, but the local fisherman seemed to do well.  Maybe next time. 

If you drive the entire 17 miles and continue along the road, you pass into Chippewa Tribal lands.  About a mile in, there is a painting of a buffalo low on a bluff.  The local park ranger told me how to find it, and that it is a great photo op.  And it was.

Havre, Montana.

While I was camped at Beaver Creek, I drove into town every day to look around.  Investigating Havre was a lot of fun.  It is a small town (a little under 10,000 population) near the Canadian border and is very friendly to its Canadian neighbors and meandering travelers.  Many people cross each day for work or shopping. 

I loved the town of Havre.  Small town, with lots of pride.  There was a real sense of community.  I visited the local quilt shop, and found that a member of my California quilt guild grew up in Havre.  Small world, chapter 42. The library was another gem.  Wi-fi and space to spread out my maps and info is always welcome.  And library staff is always so helpful! Community spirit showed in signs at the local high school ball field.

Beginning in the 1800s, Havre was a prosperous railroad town.  In 1904, most of the buildings on the main street were leveled in a fire.  Instead of giving up, the business owners opened in their basements, creating a tunnel system underground for access.  The tunnel system and the “businesses” still exist, maintained as a museum by the Historical Society.  Tours run throughout the day.  It is fascinating.  There is a drug store, telegraph, brothel, an opium den, a “cowboy” honky-tonk saloon with full bar and active poker tables, a barber shop, a Chinese laundry, an Italian restaurant, and more.  The local guide made it come to life and had so much to share.  Apparently, the Railroad also housed Chinese laborers in quarters along the underground tunnels to protect them from other railroad workers who resented the cheap labor being brought in.  Bare bunks in cells.

I did have one odd experience.  I was pulling Hilda (my trailer) when I headed to the library early one morning.  Since she is too long to fit in the diagonal spaces on the street or in the library parking lot, I pulled around the side wall and sat drinking my coffee and waiting for the library to open.  Rap-rap on my truck window.  Yes, officer?????

A local resident had called in complaining that I was “camped” illegally.  No, sir, I am here to visit the library in your fair city.  Gruff-voice question: “How long have you been here?”  Super cooperative-voice response: “About an hour.”  He was pleasant, just doing his duty following up on a complaint.  The complainant woman was yelling from the back porch of a nearby second-story flat.  He politely told her to go back inside.  She started yelling at him, and he not-so-politely told her again to go inside.  I think she wanted him to drag me off in handcuffs.  He said I was actually legally parked, but to diffuse the situation he asked me to move to the street, and said it was fine if I took four parking spots.  OK, problem solved.  Nice to meet you.  I wish I had his picture!!!!! 

Tuesday, June11 and Wednesday, June 12. Hill County Fairgrounds.  Havre, Montana.

I had a small construction issue and needed electricity to run my power tools (yes, I am carrying tools and other “stuff” secreted in the bed of my truck).  The 50-year-old shelf that was holding all my canned goods protested and collapsed.  So I needed to leave Beaver Creek and move into town to find some power.  I discovered that the Hill County Fairgrounds on the edge of town allowed overnight RV parking, with a small fee if you used electricity.  And a great shower facility with really hot water.  A wonderful find.  I moved in, hooked up, and reconstructed the shelf and supports with my saw, drill, screws, and some pieces of lumber I was carrying.  And a great “in-town” sunset looking out my trailer window!! Done and done.

Bernice Ende

I mention some people I meet by name, and most by our encounter.  Bernice needs her own special mention.

I crossed lives with Bernice at the fairgrounds.  She was camped with a two-horse trailer a little way from me, close to the fairgrounds horse barn.  My horse-person persona turned on, and I introduced myself to her and her two wonderful horses.   It turns out Bernice is a “long rider.”  By definition, that is a person who rides a horse on a journey of at least 1,000 miles.  In fact, over the last 13 years, Bernice has ridden alone over 29,000 miles.  She is the first woman to ride alone circling the U.S.  She has also ridden coast to coast round trip twice.  And numerous other trips.

She has written a book, “Lady Long Rider, Alone Across America on Horseback.”  When I met her, she was near the end of a 20-state book tour arranged by her publisher.  She had completed 92 presentations! The book tour schedule was too tight to actually ride, so for the first time in her life she was pulling a horse trailer (with a 1969 Ford truck).  She gives about an hour presentation with video and slides and open audience conversation.  I went to the presentation she gave in Havre the night I met her.  So interesting!  The audience was totally pulled in.  And of course I bought the book.  Derek Hann, local reporter for the Havre Daily News, wrote a nice article published on June 12.  You can find it on their website.  You can also find a lot more about her by searching online. 

Beyond her accomplishments, Bernice is a fantastic person.  She is an inspiration to everyone, especially women, to follow their vision, whatever it may be.  She certainly inspired me.  We spent some of the next day together, sharing some camp time and a lot of conversation.   In her travels she has been invited to people’s homes, schools, community events, and every type of human encounter. Oh… and we found that we are both relatively new members of the amazing women’s adventure group Sisters On the Fly!  Yeah, Sisters!!!

We each left in our own direction the following morning.  She to Great Falls to thankfully complete the very last stop on her “somebody else’s schedule” journey, and I to continue my “at my pace” (thanks, Carol) circle of the U.S.  At the end of my year journey, I will likely have a top-ten list of places, and one of people.  Bernice has already earned a place on the people list.